Wednesday, September 26, 2007

Normandy, France (May 17th-20th, 2007)

I knew this trip would be special. I thought that having done the Remembrance Day, WWI sights in Belgium was enough, but I was wrong. During/after a trip like this, you stand taller. You're proud to be Canadian. You appreciate those who have fought and are fighting for our country. You want to do something. Saying that it's a life-changing experience is pretty bold...but perhaps it's the truth.

I've never really known of a place (for me personally) that I felt like I needed to go to in my lifetime. I guess that's not entirely true. At some point, I would like to visit my family and see my heritage. I guess that's the same idea - so many people come to Normandy to see and visit the beaches, cemeteries, museums and memorials. I guess these people are seeing their family and their heritage. So I do understand.

Upon arriving to Caen, we went to visit the Caen Memorial Museum. This museum was huge, and would require a pretty good chunk of time to go through. It's heavy stuff. There are some excellent films to see and a range of expositions, going through all of history. The history of war. Lots
of different insights and perspectives. Very up-to-date as well. Highlights (it doesn't feel right to call them that) include pieces of the Berlin Wall and Fragments of the Twin Towers. This museum may have been the best one that I've visited. Ever.

They have this one abnormally wide road in Caen. It's perfect for the trams in the city so that there's room for the tracks separate from the car lanes. I could just feel, the reason this road existed was for the tanks to drive along. And when you see pictures of places you've been, looking exactly the same, yet in black and white, with dirt or stone roads instead of pavement, and with tanks instead of cars. It becomes so real. I'm so lucky to have never seen any of these things in person, so it's hard to imagine it...but just like I've learned from pedagogy classes, when you can put something into context of something that you've experienced it stays with you. You've learned it forever.



The next day, the first stop on our day of _________ (how can one word do justice?) was the Canadian cemetery. You know, I'm not sure what I was expecting, but it was set up very much like the site in Ypres for World War I.

























The Juno Beach Centre felt like I was home. We'd walked along the beaches to get there, and it's a great time to reflect. And to imagine. No, that's the wrong word - imagine seems too "make believe", visualize might be better. You visualize the landings. You visualize the fear. You visualize the courage. It's right in front of you, the distance that they had to cover before there was any chance that you could catch your breath and not be seen for a moment or two. I felt so exposed.
Looking up at the dunes and at the other locations, it was worse - cliffs. You can't even see what you're up against. If you think about it, if you really think about it, the bloodshed was inevitable. It's the number of hearts against the number of bullets. I can't even...
Oh, for anyone who knows of a university student who might want an amazing experience, the Centre hires students to work there. Our guide was an Ottawa University student who would be studying to get his B.Ed (I/S level, French) the upcoming September. While walking the Centre, I just felt like telling everyone I was Canadian.

When we got to The Normandy American Cemetery and Memorial, I knew this was the real deal. Hopefully no reads my writing like I take it all very lightly, it's just sometimes things don't hit you until...something. This was like what you see in all of those American feature films. Crosses. Row upon row. Even in the John McRae poem, In Flander's Fields. It's something that we're brought up with in Canadian culture. So a certain extent, that's why the cemeteries in Belgium,
while of course the sheer volume had an impact, it just, I don't know. For me, seeing those crosses hit.
We were steps from the beach. "Omaha" by code name. The Americans wanted to bury their soldiers as close to where they fell as possible. Walking through,
getting to know those who fought. There were so many who fell the day they landed. The movie, Saving Private Ryan was inspired by two soldiers who are buried in this Cemetery. There are two Roosevelts in the cemetery. One is a WWI soldier who was relocated to be closer to his relative. He is the only non WWII soldier buried here. On the way out of the cemetery, we were honoured to see the flags being brought down for the night. Carried away by a veteran. For someone who has a bad memory, I still remember the visit so clearly in my mind. I'm not the most eloquent in the best situations, and trying to put into words an experience like this is proving to be pretty much impossible. Really, words cannot describe an experience like this. I'm glad I can share my pictures.




The final cemetery that was visited was a German cemetery.






It was interesting to see the similarities between the cemeteries from the WWI and from WWII.






The headstones, style, mass grave...again, I don't know why I would expect anything different.







Between visiting different cemeteries, we visited various battle sights. Of course I know that the war happened, and that tanks roamed the land and huge guns littered the area, but when
you see it...when you really see it there. You can imagine where the boats landed. You see the craters created by the bombs. The remnant guns look like something out of a sci-fi movie or a computer game. Yes, it happened, but you never expect it to look so...horrible.






Oh, I experienced quicksand. It was really interesting. You don't sink too quickly, and just like it's
supposed to, you sink the more you move. It is possible to get yourself out, you just have to do it slowly, deliberately and carefully. On such a serious day, I have to admit, it was kinda fun playing in the stuff and doing wild and zany things while being stuck. And then you realize that
just where you're playing...nothing changes. It's still the Normandy Beaches.










Mont St. Michel has nothing to do with WWI, but visiting it is a magical experience, so it fits right in.





This beautiful cathedral was built after an angel descended multiple times to tell this special guy to build the place.







After having the angel's finger burn a hole through his forehead, he finally built it.




Anyway, the place is crazy cool because of the tides. At low tide, you can walk on the sand right up to the "mountain". A guide is definitely












recommended for this, because quicksand sucks if you don't know where to go. At high tide the one lane highway is pretty much the only way to get to
Mont St. Michel, and you have to get dropped off because the parking lots are underwater. No joke. The tides change pretty quickly however. We arrived at high tide, and just 15 minutes after we arrived you could already make out the painted grid on the parking lot.





















The last night in Caen, I walked around town and was amazed by the beautiful buildings and lighting. Europeans do it right. Maybe I'm not close enough to the actionin the T-dot to actually see what's up, but they way they care about how their monuments and buildings look on the old continent. It's great.

On the way back to Neuch, we had a free afternoon in Paris. It was a sunday, so I had to make due with gazing longingly into all my fav stores (Repetto, anyone?). I did though, use to opportunity to beef up my Amelie obsession.



It's M. Collignon's shop! Wheeeeeeeee!

Dubrovnik and Split, Croatia (April 8th-12th, 2007)

At this point, I'm just happy to get this post up. Hopefully I'll come back and add more, but don't count on it. There are way too many trips that I still haven't written about.

We went to Croatia and called Dubrovnik our home base. It's quickly becoming a tourist hotspot and a place to be seen, so if you get the chance, visit it quick, before it gets out of hand. I can understand why it's booming...it's beautiful there.

Dubrovnik has a great old town that's walled in and is so...it has so much history, character...it's so different from North America, I loved wandering the streets and alleys. It's residential and commercial at the same time. Completely touristy yet authentic.

The bell tower at the center of the old town. If you look really carefully, maybe you can see the bronze sculptures of the two boys hammering away at the bell.













The old town. Look at the ground. Cobblestone, but not enough of a gap between the stones that you would wreck your heels.




The cafes are filled up even late into the night. I love it.




On the island of Lokrum, just off the coast - a 15 minute ferry ride from Dubrovnik. No smoking allowed! You wouldn't want any forest fires, would you? The island is small enough to visit in an afteroon. There's beautiful paths through the forest and great places to have a picnic and to go swimming in the sea. There's even a little tide pool where children can go swimming. Someone's kindly installed a rope for the kids to swing on!










This is the courtyard of a former monastery. Just look at the lush vegetation.


Dubrovnik as viewed from the top of Lorkum. You can imagine what it looked like a long time ago. A-ma-zing.





Now back on the mainland. Lorkum island in the distance, with the beautiful red terracotta roofs of the old town in front.




A side trip to Split. Taking a local commuter bus (think: Greyhound, but Eastern European style) and going through Bosnia (borders are all weird there). Like any European city, there was a historical centre, but I would say that I enjoyed Dubrovnik better. If you want to go shopping, go to Split. If you want a feeling go to Dubrovnik. Either city will get you access to beaches and islands. Bottom line, you need awhile in Croatia to see everything and have a car at your disposal if possible.


The bell tower in Split. We'd taken a commuter bus there (not very pleasant in the hot, hot sun - too many people and not enough air circulation) which did give a nice view of the coast (it drove all along it).




The open forum outside of the tower. You can see that there are cushions on the steps. A cafe was smart enough to use the space for themselves. What a great idea.



At the top of the tower, looking down.











If you go to Split, I would highly recommend walking (so much more interesting than cab or bus) out to the Mestrovic Gallery. While you're out there, hike down the hill to the coast.

Random vibes from Dubrovnik...could potentially be one of my fav trips of Europe.


I really hope that this guy owns a little store and on has hung a sign on the front door that says "gone fishin".







"somewhere beyond the sea

somewhere waiting for me
my lover stands on golden sands
and watches the ships that go sailing..."