I built up the nerve to decide to go on this trip. Remember my post about not having ridden a bike since I was 13? Well, that was part of the reason why, and also I had heard from people who attended this trip last year that it was, well, slightly strenuous.
I finally decided that since I really wanted to visit Burgundy, and that this would be a unique way of discovering it, that I would bite the bullet and give it a try.
This past Friday morning, we boarded the TGV to head to Dijon (yes, the mustard). In Dijon, we switched trains to continue our journey to the quaint town of Beaune. Little did I know that it would be so touristy.
I too am a tourist, so I guess I can’t really be annoyed when I visit areas that I think are taken over by tourists…but…I am. There were SO many languages other than French that it just really threw me off guard.

Anyway, after we arrived to Beaune on Friday midday, we had a little time for lunch (during which I ate moules marinieres for an appetizer and a fruits de mers tagliatelle for my main – the pasta was FAB…scallops, fish, shrimp, squid…actually the best main I’ve had in Europe for a long time), and then we took a tour of the old Hospice.

It was neat to see the beds, chapel, different instruments and devices used way back when to cure and repair maladies and injuries. The pharmacie (shoot, look at me spelling things in French) was neat too. All the porcelain jars of herbs, powders, drugs, concoctions…really cool. By the way, got a bad cough or asthma? Eat some slug slime.
After the tour, we walked towards a winery (another tour and a wine tasting) and on the streets of Beaune, France, we bumped into people that we knew! So weird. The wine tasting was bearable. Walking through the caves, I felt nauseous, and I managed to keep my sips of wine down, but it wasn’t too pleasant. We tried four different types of wine. A young wine, an old white, a young red and an old red.
I could smell the differences in the bouquet of the wines. The berries, plums, cherries, oaks, smokey-ness, peachy-ness…that was really cool. I found out that I like aged white wine better than the young ones (less of a gag reflex) and the colour difference is reversed from white to reds (older whites are darker, whereas younger reds are darker). The reds were more bearable than the whites, but I forget which one I liked more. Maybe the older? Whatever, I don’t think I’ll be drinking wine again in the near future. I wanted to at least try the wines at the tasting because I was in Burgundy, and it’s the thing to do, but I won’t be enjoying a bottle/glass with my meals. I think that would just ruin my meal. Oh, 1999 and 2003 are good years.
Dinner was very mediocre. They tried to incorporate Burgundian (is that a word?) cuisine into it, so I give them credit for that, but it wasn’t particularly tasty. The appetizer was a simple salad that had a generous sprinkling of the saltiest ham/bacon I’ve ever had. Or was supposed to have. I left the little morsels on the side of the plate untouched. The main was Beef Burguignonne. It wasn’t great. The quality wasn’t great. The side of pasta was dry, and the beef and mushrooms, was pretty standard. Next came a cheese plate. One cheese tasted like cream cheese (but with mustard seed on the outside), the other I think was a Camembert and tasted like your average cheese, and the last was completely stank. Mushy, and sour and never to be tried again. Dessert was a frozen soufflé that looked like it had the potential to be really really good, but the excessive alcohol taste made it unbearable, and was left untouched. No dessert made me sad. Why couldn’t then make the same thing without completely saturating it with alcohol? I forget what kind of alcohol it was. It definitely wasn’t wine. It was a hard liquor. Not Grand Marnier. Brandy? Cognac? Anyway, I give the restaurant SOME credit for trying to let us try local specialties.
The next morning, we’re up and at ‘em for a full day of biking. Luckily for us, it’s starting to rain. We get our gear, and head out on the streets. The bikes we were provided with had their gears on the handles in a way that you rotated the handle to switch gears where on the left hand you had 1-3 and on the right hand 1-7. It was really easy to use, except if you wanted to switch from 2-7 to 3-1 for example, because you’d have to rotate your handles super fast while getting stuck in different gears that you didn’t want along the way. Not the best situation when going up hills. So, to avoid that problem, I stayed in the 2’s. I think I would have liked going up to the 3’s every so often, but I didn’t want to deal the awkward switching.

We head out of town towards the vineyards. Can you believe it, I was biking through vineyards in France!!! We started the run by going up a very long and steadily steep hill. Boy, that was a test of gear using abilities and plain old determination. There was no way that I was going to get off my bike today and walk up any hill. Just when we were getting to the top of the hill, the sky opened up and it just POURED. I was wearing a raincoat (specifically bought in 2nd year university to battle the Kingston windstorms), but even though purchased at a quality store, I must say…it didn’t work. I was wet under that coat. (If anyone can give some insight as to why this quality Gore-Tex coat didn’t stand up to the job, I’d love to hear it. I also have half the mind to take the coat back to the store and get a refund – I’m pretty sure they have a life-time guarantee.) Anyway, it was just pouring. I wasn’t cold or anything…I wasn’t even grumpy that it was raining. Sure I couldn’t really look around at the scenery as much because I was concentrating on not falling and I was blind half the time from the rain in my eyes…it was a different kind of thrill. It was really rewarding. Really gratifying. It’s though endorphins that get going in your body. The “happy hormones”.
That morning we biked though vineyards and small towns. It was picturesque, quaint and as European as you can imagine. I felt like I was getting a good workout (I think my body was craving one – skating season hasn’t started yet) while being able to look around and enjoy my surroundings.
Partway through the morning, we took a break in a little village in hopes that the rain would cease. We were all soaked to the bone and tried to cram into a café to warm up and dry up. It didn’t work that well.
It seemed as though most of the vendanges for the area were done. Hardly any grapes to be seen on the vines…but you could still smell them. And the whiff you got when biking by the winery…ugh.

At lunch, we stopped in a village and luckily at this time, the rain had stopped. Before we set off for the day, we had gone to the market in Beaune (incredible!!!) and bought some supplies for picnic lunch. Some fresh bread (luckily didn’t get too soaked), clementines, apples, cheese and the best buy of all…a roasted chicken. SOOOO good after a wet morning of physical exertion. The chocolate bar that I had stashed in my backpack this morning was toast (I wouldn’t discover it until the end of the day when I was emptying out my bag and noticed a crumpled, mushy, wet, mass of Lindt Cresca White. Darn it. Those things are really good too.) I was impressed that the public (and FREE – very rare) washroom was so well kept. And it was a self cleaning toilet too. One downside. The seat was metal. A smidge cold on the tush.
The afternoon was very pleasant. More vineyards, more towns…oh yeah, mix in some highways?!? Yeah, how unsafe was that. Biking on the side of the highway. A little bit scary. Oh, and mix in some falls too. I never did, but I witnessed quite a few. It was just really slippery from the rain, and there was a lot of mud too.
By the end of the day, it was raining again, but by then, we were too weathered to really think anything of it. As we headed back towards Beaune, up yet another hill, my bum wasn’t in too much pain and I could feel my quads feeling a little sore, but was really was a good bike. A good day that I feel proud of. I’ve never biked for that long, use gears, gone up big hills, seen and experienced that things I did that day. 60km. That’s right, we biked 60km. Left Beaune at 9:30am, stopped in total of about 1.5-2 hours and returned back to Beaune at around 4pm. The last 30seconds of the run was the worst, because the bum was a little sore, and the city centre of Beaune is cobblestone. Ouchy!
After a long, partially hot shower (I think we used up the hot water, so the last 5 minutes of my shower was lukewarm), I stretched and decided to cool down by walking around town and doing a little bit of window shopping. For a small town is had stores including: Sephora, L’Occitaine, Pimkie…one other one that I can’t put my finger on (either C&A or ___ - really can’t remember it…it’s a four letter word though). But no bigger ones like H&M, Mango, Zara, what have you. There were a lot of art galleries where artists were selling their work, and tons of confiseries. One store in particular had a very impressive spread of nougats, and I sampled the flavours of Lemon, Black Currant, Praline, Strawberry and Pistachio. I can safely say that if I went back to Beaune, I would not by making such purchases again. I found the nougat too soft and there were TOO many nuts in it. It was okay, but I’d try something different next time. I was going to by a good quality tablecloth for mom, but it turns out that European have much smaller tables that us North Americans do (figures – I mean, we’re obsessed by SUVs) and after a lot of pondering and really trying to figure out just how much the dining table in Scarborough is, I sadly decided to pass and profusely apologized to one of the nicest and most helpful and understanding salespeople I’ve ever met. I picked out the pattern and the colours…it would’ve been so nice…but only if you had a table that needed a 1.75m square nappe (French for tablecloth). So, no tablecloth mom, but I told you what I got instead. I hope you’ll like them.

Our dinner was at a former monastery, now a hotel. You had to duck and step down into the dining room. A dark room with no windows with gorgeous arches and tapestries hanging from the brick and stone walls. The food was better than the night prior. A great salad with yummy balsamic vinaigrette (I need to get myself some of that this year – and some olive oil too), I passed on the piece of cheese to my neighbour. The main was chicken in a sauce that had a bite to it. A wasabi kind of bite. I wasn’t a big fan of that. And the dessert was a chocolate brownie. So the meal itself wasn’t anything spectacularly impressive, but each dish was good to eat (less the weird sauce with the chicken).
The next day, we were only going to be biking 25km and the skies were gray, but not rainy. We headed out of the town in the other direction through some of the most beautiful villages and yet again more vineyards. On hill was particularly daunting, but by now I was a pro and got to the top without any problems. By bum was a smidge sore, but not nearly as bad as I thought it would be. I was really lucky in that I got a bike with a uber padded seat. My quads weren’t too bad either. I wanted to bike longer (we finished the whole 25km earlier than out guide had envisioned), however some of our group was hurting a little bit more than I was and we decided that it would be best if we headed back early, had more time to relax (and do some last minute shopping – I’m a phenom when it comes to last minute purchases) before heading back on the train to Neuchâtel. We also had enough time that I decided to go have a great last lunch before leaving.
All by myself. It was fantastic and I didn't feel weird. I went back to the amazing restaurant that we ate at the first afternoon and had duck. I love duck. It's so good. Luckily for me (Europeans tend to like their duck very red, whereas, I'm used to the way it's cooking at home and it's brown on the inside) after I asked them to make it really really well done, the almost obliged (last resturant I asked, it came back red, I sent it back and then it came back red again - not a happy camper). Anyway, the duck came with a bit of ratatouille and a celery puree. This meal was just as good at the one on Friday. A brouchure dissapointingly lists the restaurant as a tourist restaurant, but I really have to say that if you're in Beaune, you must eat at
Le Gourmandin. The food is fantastic and the wait staff are FAB as well.
By the time we were ready to leave the beautiful town of Beaune it was DARN cold (luckily for the whole weekend I had my FAB etole to keep me warm). And when we arrived back to Neuchâtel. It was DARN pouring rain.
DARN.
You may know that I have an extreme dislike for running. After this bike trip, I think I know why. Before I thought that it was because it was too mindless, that I was repeating the same thing over and over again (can’t be that because I pedaled over and over again). Or I thought that I would get bored with the scenery (can’t be that, because biking by different things was pretty nice). It’s because I run too slow. The world would be passing by at too slow of a rate and I would feel like I’m not really getting anywhere for the effort exerted. I wouldn’t feel as much "wind in my hair".
…but I guess I don’t have an excuse not to want to bike with people anymore. Except that I’d have to borrow a bike from someone because I don’t have my own.